Halfway through the Carretera Austral!

Hard to believe we’re already halfway through the Carretera Austral. Time and miles have gone very quickly.

The flights and ferry rides for the first three days of our journey went fairly smoothly but were tiring. Once we reached Santiago, Chile, we had to retrieve our bike boxes and bags, carry them to another terminal, and go through customs, check-in, and security once more. We just made our flight.

Once we arrived in Puerto Monty, we had a lovely stay with our host Eliana.

Copying and pasting my daily journal here. Concise version: we’re riding between 30-48 miles a day, with 3,000-4,000 feet of climbing. Lots of other cyclists. The road is mostly paved but that will change tomorrow.

​Monday, January 13th. 35 miles, 3297 feet climbingUnexpectedly, much of the road was unpaved today. Slow climb away from the water. Made it to Chaitén, where we camped in a yard and grocery shopped. Talked with Ben (Utah), Kahung and Melanie (Canada). It’s supposed to rain starting tomorrow evening and rain all day Wednesday.


Tuesday, January 14th. 32 miles, 1400 feet climbing
Rode to Yelcho Lodge and booked a Tentsite for two nights. Spent the afternoon drinking coffee and knitting in the lodge. Towards dinner, we spent time talking with Kahung.
Beautiful lodge and beautiful setting! Right in the lake’s edge with glaciers in the distance.


Wednesday, January 15th. rest day. Hung out at the lodge and swapped stories with Melanie and Kahung. Knitted, drank coffee, played with the smallest Bananagrams set ever. A wonderful day.


Thursday, January 16th. 37.5 miles, 3,881 feet climbing. Stopped in Villa Santa Lucia for coffee, cake, and groceries. Filled our tummies. Slept in a great spot under a bridge, the river was loud! Had our best dinner yet—tostadas and salad (carrot, avocado, and tuna in oil).


Friday, January 17th. 47.1 miles, 3481 feet climbing. Stopped for second breakfast in La Junta. We seem to forget how many calories you need to cycle tour. Rode a longer day to Puyuhuapi. Bought groceries and stayed in a campground in town


Saturday, January 18th. 38 miles, 3,733 feet climbing. Last night music was playing in the city center until 5am! Big climb starting at 11:30. 2,000 feet climbing on gravel. Took us about two hours to reach the top. Parque Queulat. Beautiful at the top and a five mile downhill. Wild camping by the Rio Cisnes.


Sunday, January 19th. 47.5 miles, 3,795 feet climbed. Started the day feeling a bit sluggish. I don’t think we’re eating enough calories for breakfast. Stopped at Villa Amengual, hoping for some coffee and breakfast. Not much open at 9:30am on a Sunday, we made our own coffee and snacks. Camped by a river tonight. Many spots available for campers—we may have company tonight.


Monday January 20th. 38.3 miles, 1868 feet climbed. Went alternate route today to stay on pavement. Added ten miles but easier. Both having a bit of stomach rumble.


Six miles into our ride today we stopped at a great bakery in Villa Manihuales, got two coffees, two hot empanadas, and three rolls for under $6.00. Found a campsite near the river, only 22 miles to Coyhaique tomorrow.


Tuesday, January 21st. 24.6 miles, 2,149 feet climbed. Arrived in Coyhaique around 11am. Got coffee, bought John a new raincoat and I bought a new fanny pack. Sad to throw away our old raincoats and fanny pack. Bought some groceries and headed to the AirBNB where we cleaned up, washed clothes, and ate a great dinner.


Wednesday, January 22nd. Day off the bike! Took my bike to a mechanic and had the derailleurs adjusted. Walked around town, bought food supplies, and rested.